![]() I have built front ends for tuners that removed all but the fundamental for each string, granted with analog and later switched capacitor filters, and it really made no difference. The thing that makes strobe tuners so valuable is the fact that they can show you not just the intonation of the fundamental, but also the relationship between the fundamental and at least a couple harmonics. You hit the nail on the head, but then you hit your thumb. It may very well be that we need a tuner with a DSP on the other side of the mic or in the software that strips the signal down to one fundamental frequency before sending it to the comparison code so the display (no matter what kind) doens't jump around all over the place. The frustration most folks encounter with tuning guitar is that the tuner is trying to be too accurate and following every tiny overtone to make sure it's on the mark. In some cases the el-cheapo does better.Īccuracy is NOT the problem here. Acoustic guitar has all the complex overtones that freak out the tuner so you still have to use your ear.ĭon't buy in to the strobe hype, try some other brands. For example on some electic guitars you may have to tune the G string a little flat (to the tuner) before it will sound correct with the rest of the strings. The tuner is only to get you close, you still have to tune the guitar by ear. There are no tuners on the market that are smart enough to not jump around like that. I remember those things, they were no big deal. Any real world opinions? If I pull my cat's tail hard enough, I can get close to the G note! My acoustics don't have a built in tuner, and the Boss TU-15 I use can be a pain with the needle fluctuating all over the place due to string vibration sometimes. i'd like to be able to confirm if the motor is alive or dead if anyone has any tips for that, or any other reccomendations.Is there really a big difference other than price? Not being sarcastic here, it's just I've never owned a strobe-type tuner and just being inquisitive, that's all. In any case, if anyone could point me in a good direction that would be great. i don't really know what it should look like or if it could be frying transistors. on the scope the signal looks like a spike up and then down. ![]() The other thing i'm not sure about is the signal coming in from the tuning circuit. however bot coils are not open and have the same inductance so i'm not certain how to confirm that its dead. ![]() What i'm considering now is either that the motor is dead. with the motor board removed everything is stable and seems good. i can't really make any voltage reading on the motor board because it seems like it would start a small fire. everything else on that board seems to be just fine (although i'm not too sure about how to test the flipflops properly but all three share the same resistance readings). tried replacing them but they just toasted again. the MJE711 was burnt out and the 3.3ohm resistors were testing high. Naturally i began looking at the motor control board. the motor lookls like its trying to turn over but just moves about a quarter inch but does not spin. the strobe lights are on and respond to an input. the power supply seems to be giving the right voltages. here's whats going on and what i know.Įverything seems to work except the motor. i'm trying to get a broken peterson strobe tuner model 400 working again and have hit a bit of a wall.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |